Island Hopping, Appendix Q: Hurricane Holes

ISLAND HPPING

A Discussion of Hurricane Preparation

and

A listing of possible hurricane holes in the Bahamas and Caribbean.

Portions of this appendix appeared as a two-part article in Latitudes & Attitudes

If you are going to be cruising in the Bahamas or Caribbean during hurricane season, you should always keep a lookout for a safe hurricane hole and you should always know where the nearest protection lies, and how long it will take for you to get there. With that in mind let me offer a few of the places I consider hurricane holes. Bear in mind that if you ask ten different skippers what they look for in a hurricane hole you’re likely to get ten different answers. Some of the places that I mention may not meet your requirements. I offer them only for your consideration when seeking safety for your vessel. The final decision is yours and yours alone. If in doubt always check with the locals, they usually know the best spots. If you have a favorite spot to recommend, click here to send me an email with the info. Your suggestion may help save a cruiser's life and vessel.

Hurricane Preparation	The Bahamas	The Turks & Caicos	Dominican Republic
Puerto Rico & SVI	U.S. Virgin Islands	British Virgin Islands	Leeward Islands
Windward Islands	Trinidad & Tobago	Northwestern Caribbean	Home

Preparing for a Hurricane

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A HURRICANE HOLE!

There is no anchorage so secure that it cannot be decimated by a strong hurricane and a high storm surge. There are no guarantees; there is no Fort Knox to hide in when a named windstorm threatens. Now, with that of the way we can discuss how to protect yourself in those special places that offer the best hurricane protection. Let’s begin our discussion with what constitutes protection and pass along a few hints as to how to secure yourself as well as get along with your neighbors.

First, make sure your fuel is topped off and you have enough food and water for an extended period. Also, make sure you have enough cash to see you through as phone lines may be down for a while which would prohibit credit card usage. Once your tanks, lockers, and wallet are topped off, you can head for protection. Some skippers prefer to head to sea when a hurricane threatens. Some will take off at a ninety-degree angle from the hurricane’s forecast path.. I cannot advise you as to what course to take, but I for one, unless absolutely necessary, will not gamble with racing a storm that is unpredictable (no matter what the forecasters claim).

For protection, most of us would prefer a narrow creek that winds deep into the mangroves where we will be as snug as the proverbial bug-in-a-rug. These creeks are rare, and to be assured of space you must get there early. When a storm threatens, you can bet that everybody will soon be aware of it and the early birds will settle in the best places. Sure, those early birds might have to spend a night or two in the hot, buggy mangroves, but isn’t that better than coming in too late and finding the best spots taken and your choices for protection down to anchoring in the middle of a pond with a bit of fetch and no mangroves to offer protection? Hint number one...get to safety early and secure your vessel.

So how do you secure your vessel? Easy! First, find a likely looking spot where you’ll be safest from the oncoming winds. Try to figure out by the forecast the path of the storm and where the wind will be coming from as the storm passes and plan accordingly (remember that the winds blow counterclockwise around the center in the northern hemisphere). If your chosen spot is in a creek that is fine. Set out bow and stern anchors and tie off your vessel to the mangroves on each side with as many lines as you can, including lines off the bow and stern to assist the anchors. Use plenty of chafe gear (I like old fire-hose, leather, and towels) as the lines lead off your boat and rig your lines so that they don’t work back and forth on the mangroves as well. If chain can be used to surround the mangroves that will help (not the mangroves of course). If other boats wish to proceed further up the creek past your position, remove your lines from one side of your boat to allow them to pass and then re-secure your vessel. Courtesy amongst endangered vessels will add to the safety factor of all involved, especially if somebody needs to come to somebody else’s aid later on.

If your only choice is to head into the mangroves bow or stern first, always go in bow first; it stands to reason that if you place your stern into the mangroves serious rudder damage could result. I prefer to go bow-in as far as I can, until my boat settles her keel in the mud (trying to keep the bow just out of contact with the mangroves), tie off well, and set out at least two stern anchors. If other boats will be tying off into the mangroves in the same manner on each side of you, courtesy dictates each skipper assist the other in the setting of anchors (so that they don’t snag on each other) and the securing of lines in the mangroves (and don’t forget to put out fenders).

If you must anchor in the open, away from the mangroves, place your anchors to give you 360º protection. The greatest danger to your vessel will likely be the other boats around you, and in the Caribbean there’s going to be a better than average chance that you’ll be sharing your hole with several unattended boats, often times charter boats that are not secured in the best of manners. A good lookout is necessary for these added dangers.

Once secure, your next step is to strip everything off your boat and stow it below. Sails, bimini top, dodger, awnings, rail-mounted grill, wind-generators, solar panels, jerry cans, and anything small and loose that can become a dangerous object should it fly away at a hundred plus miles an hour. And, don’t forget to secure your dinghy as well! Keep a mask and snorkel handy in the cockpit, you might need it to stand watch. Also, keep a sharp knife close at hand, you never know when you might need it. Pack all your important papers in a handy waterproof container, and in the most severe of circumstances, use duct tape to secure your passport, wallet, and/or purse to your body. Plan ahead as you secure your vessel so that you will not have to go on deck if you don’t absolutely have to, it is most difficult to move about in 100-knot winds.

The Bahamas

Abaco

Abaco offers quite a few decent hurricane holes. The best protection lies in places like Treasure Cay where you can anchor in the narrow creeks surrounding the marina complex. There is a man-made canal complex called Leisure Lee lying just south of Treasure Cay on Great Abaco . Here you will find excellent protection from seas in 8’ but you will have to tie off to the trees along the shore as the entire complex is dredged and the holding is not good. Green Turtle Cay offers White Sound and Black Sound. I much prefer White Sound though there is a bit more fetch for seas to build up. Black Sound, though smaller, has a grassy bottom and a few concrete mooring blocks scattered about. At Man Of War Cay you can choose either anchorage. Just to the south on Elbow Cay, Hope Town Harbour boasts very good protection. If you arrive early enough and your draft is shallow enough you may be able to work you way up the creek for better protection. There is an old hurricane chain stretched across the harbor that you may be able to secure your vessel to. Ask any local where to find the chain. Just a few miles away lies Marsh Harbour with that wonderful sand/mud bottom that anchors so love. The holding here is great but the harbour is open to the west for a fetch of over a mile. For small shallow draft (3’) monohull vessels there is a small creek on the eastern side of the harbour just to the east of the Conch Inn Marina. Get there early. Farther south you might consider Little Harbour though it is open to the north with a 3’ bar across the mouth. Between Marsh Harbour and Little Harbour lies Snake Cay which has excellent protection in its mangrove lined creeks. In the more northern Abacos you can try Hurricane Hole on the southeast end of Allan’s Pensacola Cay. Here excellent protection can be found in 6’-8’ of water but the bar at the entrance will only allow about 4’-6’ at high water, depending on the tidal height that particular day. Small shallow draft vessels can work themselves well up into the creeks at Double Breasted Cay if unable to get to better protection to the south.

Andros

The numerous creeks that divide Andros into hundreds of tiny isles are only suitable for small, shallow draft vessels. An excellent spot for vessels drawing less than 4’ is in the small pocket at Stafford Creek that lies north of the bridge. Enter only at high tide. If you draw over 6’ and are in Andros when a hurricane threatens you would be better off to get to New Providence or someplace in the Exumas, although I know several boaters that weathered Hurricane Michelle at the dock in Fresh Creek (the eye of that hurricane passed directly over Fresh Creek and winds were in excess of 100 mph).

The Berry Islands

There are only three places to consider in the Berry Islands and two of them were hit hard by powerful Hurricane Andrew. Chub Cay Marina is a possibility if you didn’t mind a slip or perhaps tying off between pilings. The marina, now closed for renovation until March of 1006, was devastated by Hurricane Andrew and quite a few boats were destroyed. Something to remember when it’s decision making time. Another possibility would be to work your way into Little Harbour. There is a winding channel into the inner anchorage where you can tuck into a narrow channel just north of the Darville’s dock in 7’-11’ of water with mangroves to the east and a shallow bar and a small cay to the west. Little Harbour is open to the north but there is a large shallow bank with 1' over it at MLW just north of the mangroves. By far the best place to be in a hurricane is in Bullock’s Harbour at Great Harbour Cay Marina. Check with the dockmaster prior to arrival to make sure there is room at the marina as the holding in the harbor is poor.

Bimini

The best protection in the Biminis is up the creeks of South Bimini by way of Nixon’s Harbour. Seven feet can get in over the bar at high tide where you’ll find plenty of secure water inside. On the west side of South Bimini lies the entrance to the Port Royal canals. Five feet can make it over the bar with spots of 7’-10’ inside. Be sure to tie up in vacant areas between houses. On the north side of South Bimini is another entrance to some small canals with a 4’ bar at the entrance from the harbor at North Bimini . Take into consideration that these canals have plenty of wrecks lining the shores along with old rotten pilings jutting up here and there. The surrounding land is very low and the canals may become untenable in a high storm surge. From Bimini Harbour you can follow the deep-water channel, 5’ at MLW, northward to Bimini Bay Resort where you can find protection in a deep mangrove lined creek. There is only room for two or three boats here at best. As with any hurricane hole, get there early.

Cat Island

Unless you have a small, shallow draft vessel and can get up Orange Creek or Bennett’s Creek along the western shore of Cat Island, your only choice may be Hawksnest Creek on the southwestern tip of Cat Island. Six feet can enter here at MLW and work its way up the creek. Bennett’s Harbour offers good protection, but it is small and open to the north.

Crooked/Acklins

The only protection here will be found in the maze of creeks between French Wells and Turtle Sound for boats with drafts of 3’ or less, or by going through The Going Through towards the Bight of Acklins. Here you will find a maze of shallow creeks leading to numerous small mangrove lined holes, perfect little hidey-holes for the shallow draft cruiser (up to 4’ or less draft) seeking shelter.

Eleuthera

There are a few holes in Eleuthera but they all suffered considerable damage from Hurricane Andrew. Royal Island offers excellent protection and good holding with a number of large concrete moorings. During Hurricane Andrew the fleet washed up on one shore only to be washed up on the other shore after the eye passed. Hatchet Bay is often considered a prime hurricane hole but it too has a history of damage as the hulls along the shore will testify. At Spanish Wells you will find Muddy Hole lying off the creek between Russell Island and St. George’s Cay. Muddy Hole is the local hurricane hole and 4’ can enter here at MLW if you get there early. Every boat (and there are a lot of them) at Spanish Wells will be heading there also. Some skippers like Cape Eleuthera Marina at Powell Point but I wouldn’t use it as shelter unless I had no other choice. The dogleg marina channel is open to the west and large seas easily work their way into the basin rocking and rolling everybody. The huge concrete breakwater at the bend in the dogleg has suffered considerable damage and offers testimony to the power of the seas that enter the marina. Just south of Powell Point lies No Name Harbour, Un-Named Harbour on some charts. Seven feet can enter here at MLW and 6’ can work farther up the small coves that branch off and offer fair protection. You might consider tying your lines to the trees and setting your anchors ashore here, the holding is not that great being as this is a dredged harbor. Rounding Powell Point to the north and then heading east you'll find several small coves to starboard, east of Cape Eleuthera Marina, which can take vessels with drafts to 6' and offer good protection from wind and seas.

Exumas

The Exuma Cays are home to some of the best hurricane protection to be found in the Bahamas . From the north you should consider the inner pond at Norman ’s Cay. The pond offers excellent protection and good holding although there is a mile long north-south fetch that could make things rough at best. Shroud Cay has some excellent creeks with a reputation as good hurricane holes. Dr. Evans Cottman rode out a fierce hurricane here as documented in his book Out Island Doctor. Compass Cay has a snug little cove for protection with moorings, a marina, and creeks for shallow draft vessels. Farther south at Sampson Cay you may be able to tie up in the marina on the eastern side of the complex in the shallow and well-protected basin. I have known people to anchor between the Majors just north of Staniel Cay for hurricane shelter though I personally would try to find someplace a little more protected. At the north end of Great Guana Cay lies a small, shallow creek that gives fair to good protection for one or two small vessels drawing less that 5’. Cave Cay is an excellent hurricane hole with room for four boats in 6’ at MLW. Many experienced captains like the pond at Rudder Cut Cay as a refuge but I see the eastern shore as being very low. I believe a strong hurricane with a large storm surge and high tide might make this anchorage a death trap. If had time to choose I would go north for five miles to Cave Cay and hope it wasn’t too crowded. The George Town area is home to what may be the finest holes in the Bahamas. Holes #2, and #3 at Stocking Island are excellent hurricane holes in every sense offering protection from wind and wave. The only problem here is that these holes will be crowded and Hole #3 is usually full of stored boats with absentee owners. The inner cove at Red Shanks offers good protection if you can get in close to the mangroves. Another possibility is inside the western arm of Crab Cay.

Grand Bahama

If you’re in the area of Grand Bahama Island you might consider tying up at Old Bahama Bay Marina at West End. Although the marina offers excellent protection a direct hit by a major hurricane would do considerable damage to this complex as has been proven over the last few years. From the north of Grand Bahama you can consider entering Hawksbill Creek though it only has 2’ over the bar at its entrance with 5’-6’ inside at MLW. The Grand Lucayan Waterway offers very good protection. You can tie up anywhere deep within its concrete lined canals but you cannot pass under the Casuarina Bridge unless your height is less than 27’ at high water. The canal has a fairly uniform depth of about 7' (with one 5' spot near the bridge) throughout although the northern entrance has shoaled to around 4’-4½’ at MLW. Another option would be to tie up at Lucayan Marina or in the small coves surrounding the complex that offer protection.

New Providence

Here, in the capitol of the Bahamas, Nassau Harbour has fair to good holding (depending on where and how you set your anchor) along with a long east-west fetch. There are two hurricane chains crossing the harbour whose approximate locations are shown on the chart for Nassau. If you fortunate enough to know someone in Coral Harbour you may be able to use their dock to escape the seas. On the southwestern shore of Rose Island is the entrance to a very good hurricane hole shown as Salt Pond on charts. It is a circular harbour with a small island in the center. The water is easily a 50’-60’ wide and 7’-9’ deep. Anchor and tie off between the shore and the island. Get there early as everyone in Nassau and the northern Exumas will have the same idea.

Long Island

If I had to find a place to hide from a hurricane while visiting Long Island my first choice would be in the canals that wind behind the marina at Stella Maris. Some skippers have suggested Joe’s Sound but I find the land to the west too low and a tidal surge like the one in Hurricane Lili (9’-14’) would make this anchorage untenable. Another consideration is in the mangrove tidal creeks in the Dollar Harbour area but the best protection is hard to get into unless you have a draft of less than 4’.

The Jumentos and Ragged Island

There are only two possibilities here and both are in the vicinity of Ragged Island. A boat with a draft of less than 5’ can work its way up the mangrove lined channel to anchor the harbour at Duncan Town. Here you will 4’-6’ at high water with mangroves and cliffs surrounding you. This would be a fantastic hurricane hole if it were just a couple of feet deeper. The people of Duncan Town are in the process of having their channel re-dredged, perhaps they will so something with the harbour area also. Just south of Ragged Island is a small hole called Boat Harbour that some Ragged Islanders use as a hurricane hole. There is 9’ inside but there is a winding channel with a 3’ bar at the entrance. Ask any Ragged Islander to help you find your way in if necessary; they’ll probably be more than happy to help.

The Southern Bahamas

If you are cruising the southern Bahamas from Crooked-Acklins to Mayaguana or Inagua you will not find a truly safe hole. Although I have heard about a large sailboat riding out Hurricane Klaus lying between Samana and Propeller Cay I would not attempt to test my luck. I would either head north to better protection at George Town or continue on to The Turks and Caicos for protection at Sellar’s Pond or up the canals at Discovery Bay lying northeast of Five Cays, at Leeward Going Through, or up North Creek at Grand Turk. If I had enough time I would try to make Luperón in the Dominican Republic, which is as good a hole as any in the Caribbean.

The Turks and Caicos

To begin with, if I was heading south from the Bahamas and a hurricane threatened I would prefer to stay in George Town , Exuma, for shelter. If heading to the Turks and Caicos from the south, I would stay in Luperón, as secure a hurricane shelter as any in the Caribbean.

In the Caicos Islands, Providenciales offers several dredged canals that offer an opportunity to get well inland, hopefully away from any damaging seas though you may still be affected by a storm surge. On the south side of Providenciales, the canals at Discovery Bay (Cooper Jack Bight) are a favorite place for local boaters and are well protected. A 6½’ draft can enter here at high water. South Side Basin Marina, just inside the entrance to the canals, has emphatically informed me that they do not want boats at their docks during a hurricane and the marina manager will insist on your leaving in the event of a storm. Bear in mind that when anchoring in any of the dredged canals around Provo, that the bottom will likely be poor holding; you’ll have to set some of your anchors on shore here.

A small, narrow, shallow canal, leads northward from Caicos Marina and Shipyard to some private residences in the Long Bay Hills section of Provo and offers excellent protection but draft is limited to 3’-4’ at low water; the canal entrance, through a small bascule bridge, prohibits wide multihull vessels.

Just north of Leeward Marina in Leeward Going Through is a small canal leading into the Leeward community. The bar at the entrance restricts entry to vessels with drafts of less than 5’ at high tide. Leeward Going Through has often been used as a hurricane hole by some skippers and should also be considered as well as the cuts between Pine Cay and Fort George Cay, Ft. George Cay and Dellis Cay, and between Dellis Cay and Parrot Cay. A word of warning about the tides here during hurricanes. When a storm surge approaches from the south across the banks, the water rushes in the southern sides of these cuts at a good clip. One past hurricane raised the water level in Leeward Going Through by over 6’. You can probably imagine the current involved with the movement of that much water, so use extreme care when securing your vessel. On the northern shore, folks were walking around in knee-deep water in the central portion of Turtle Cove Marina during Hurricane Frances in 2004, that’s an approximate surge of 6’-8’.

On the northern shore of Providenciales, skippers should consider Sellar’s Pond and Turtle Cove Marina, a very well protected spot. But check with the marina first for space availability; they might not want to take on any other boats. Just west of Sellar’s Pond is small Thompson’s Cove, a private dredged community with a sign warning that all unauthorized boats will be removed. Drafts of less than 5’ can work their way in here on a high tide. There are several undeveloped lots and if one did not have permission to tie up inside, one would have to hope that the landowners would understand that a life threatening storm chased you inside and you would not leave until the danger passed. As well protected as Thompson Cove is, I would probably make it my last choice.

Shallow draft boats, those with drafts of less than 3’, could work themselves into some of the creeks between North Caicos, Middle Caicos, and East Caicos if needed. Cockburn Harbour on South Caicos is excellent in most conditions but it is unsuitable to me as a hurricane shelter.

In the Turks Islands, the only choice for shelter is to round the northern tip of Grand Turk and seek shelter inside North Creek if conditions allow entry. The entrance channel is limited to about 6½’ on a normal high tide but once inside the water deepens to over 12’ in places. There is quite a bit of north/south fetch to take into consideration, but the holding is excellent in sand and mud.

The Dominican Republic

To be brief, along the northern shore of the Dominican Republic the best hurricane hole is in the harbor at Luperón, which is probably one of the best hurricane holes in the entire Caribbean . Along the southern shore of the DR are several rivers that one could hide in but after Hurricane Jeanne in 2004, that option does not seem as inviting anymore. Due to the tremendous amounts of rainfall that Hurricane Jeanne brought to the island of Hispaniola, huge walls of water flushed down these rivers destroying shoreside facilities and in one case an entire bridge.

Puerto Rico and the Spanish Virgin Islands

The mainland of Puerto Rico is blessed with some of the finest hurricane protection in the Caribbean. My first choice would be to tie up in the mangroves in Las Jobos. When Hurricane George crossed this area a few years back, no boats in Jobos were damaged. Cayo Puerca marks the entrance to Jobos, where the best protection is found by working your way up the mangrove creeks west of the cay. A second choice is at the southern end of Bahia de Boqueron. Here you’ll find a deep (7’ and more) entrance to Cano de Boqueron, where the marine police and the DNR have their docks. Follow the stakes in and keep between them as you round the mangroves and head northeast towards the police docks. You’ll have a minimum of 7’ the entire way, though outside the channel the waters shoal rapidly. Tie off in the mangroves and have a nice hurricane!

There are still some secondary choices if you cannot reach the protection of these two harbors. Salinas would be my third choice, but unattended boats will be a problem here. Puerto Real, just north of Boqueron, is a small, protected harbor with some mangroves for your protection. Some folks like the protection that Palmas del Mar offers, narrow canals amid high condos. Unfortunately, one must know somebody with dock space that will allow you to tie up for a while. The principal danger here would be a strong storm surge, which could wreak havoc in the canals. Food for thought, my fellow skippers!

Other possible shelters include Bahia de Guanica (although I find it far too open with too much fetch), or deep in the mangroves at La Parguera (quite open to a storm surge). I do not consider these locations as prime shelters, I only mention them as last resorts. However, there is a viable option in the area of La Parguera, which is best known for its bioluminescent lagoon called Bahia Fosforescente, lying just to the east. It can be considered a hurricane hole. The best protection for vessels of 6’ draft is in the creek that leads to the northeast and a smaller creek that leads off it to the northwest. Vessels drawing 4’ can take the creek to the northwest of the bay, deep into the mangroves in areas where 6’ of water can be found. These are very good spots to snuggle into and ride out a storm however storm surge must be taken into account here.

If you are in the Spanish Virgin Islands, your only choice, and it is a good one, is in the mangrove creeks at Ensenada Honda, Culebra. Many boats survived fierce Hurricane Hugo here and this is as fine a shelter as you’ll find in the Caribbean. Remember though, better get here early as other Puerto Rican and Virgin Island boaters will have the same idea as you for seeking shelter in Culebra.

The United States Virgin Islands

The Virgin Islands are some of the finest cruising grounds in the world, but they also seem to be a favorite target of many hurricanes and tropical storms. Hurricane Hole, inside the southeastern tip of St. John, USVI, in the Virgin Islands Coral Reef National Monument, is regarded as the best hurricane protection in the Virgin Islands. This spot will be crowded, you can bet on that! Hurricane Hole is now closed to vessels except when a storm threatens. It is recommended that you do not enter the area sooner than five days before landfall, and you must vacate the area within 48 hours of the passing of the storm. The park wants NO damage to the mangroves here! The regs require that you do NOT tie up to the mangroves or through them to other trees. It is illegal to tie ropes to any vegetation on park lands. Mangroves are recognized as an endangered species and are protected by Federal and Territorial law. The park will have staff coming through that will remove any ropes or chains fastened to the mangroves! Sand screws are also prohibited. The park suggests that vessels secure themselves fore and aft with several large anchors in an east/west orientation parallel, as the winds tend to funnel though the area in those directions.

In St. Thomas, USVI, Benner Bay is the entrance to a mangrove-lined lake with good protection. Follow the markers into Benner Bay, then follow the creek leading westward from the marinas, just south of the mainland of St. Thomas. Keep in the deeper water closer to shore until you are in the lake. It can be tricky getting in here, but this route can accommodate about 5’ at low water.

The British Virgin Islands

On Tortola, BVI, a bit southwest of Road Town, you can find some protection at Nanny Cay Marina and a bit further north at Sea Cow Bay (although the bay is shallow, 3’-4’ at MLW). In an emergency, you will find a bit of a lee in the northeast corner of Fat Hogs Bay. East of Road Town, Paraquita Bay is a relatively shallow, but well protected mangrove lined bay that is a good choice for those seeking shelter. Some boats tie up here for the entire season.

I have heard some cruisers mention Gorda Sound or Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour as possible hurricane holes. I find that Gorda Sound is a bit too open and with too much fetch, and the small basin of Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour, though protected from the seas, appears to me as a spot I would not want to be in the event of a hurricane of any strength.

The Leeward Islands

The Leeward Islands stretch from St. Martin in the north to Dominica in the south, and are quite often the targets of hurricanes. In the Leewards, only St. Martin , St. Barth’s, Antigua , and Guadeloupe offer true hurricane protection and most skippers plan to be well south of this area by hurricane season.

Much has been said about the protection, or the lack of it, offered by Simpson Bay Lagoon in St. Martin/Sint Maarten. If you’re thinking of using Simpson Bay for hurricane protection, bear in mind that of some 1400 boats that sought shelter from Hurricane Luis, approximately 1,000 were lost. Still, if you can find a good spot away from other boats, you have a fair chance of survival here. I would suggest Oyster Pond as an alternative. Although it has a large marina with a charter fleet firmly ensconced there, this small cove offers good protection from wind and seas. But probably the best protection on the island of St. Martin/Sint Maarten is on the French side at Port Lonvilliers Marina at Anse Marcel.

Just south of St. Martin lies lovely St. Barth’s and the picturesque harbor of Gustavia. I’ve heard a few people boast that Gustavia is a good hurricane hole, and it should definitely be considered if no other options are available. Certainly, there are better choices for hurricane protection than Gustavia with its large mooring field, but as the old adage advises...any port in a storm.

Farther south, Antigua offers a couple of fine alternatives. Starting at the NE tip, St. John’s for protection; rather, move a one should not consider few miles south to Jolly Harbour where you can secure yourself in the man-made canal system, protected from seas, but not from surge. On the south shore of Antigua you’ll find two good harbors, English Harbour and Falmouth Harbour. English Harbour, narrow and surrounded by high hills, offers better protection than the much larger and open Falmouth Harbour. To the east is a small bay called Indian Creek. The entrance is a narrow dogleg leading in to good protection. Do not consider Indian Creek a prime hurricane hole; English Harbour is a better choice. On the east shore of Antigua is Nonsuch Bay, where at the north end you can find some protection in Ledeatt Cove in the lee of Goat Hill, in Emerald Cove, or in Clover Leaf Bay. At the north end of Antigua many folks like Parham Harbour, however I find it far too open. Deep-water seas could not work their way in, but the area has a long fetch that would permit seas to build up inside the protected harbor.

The French island of Guadeloupe has its own brand of hurricane protection in the mangrove-lined creeks along the Rivière Salée. Entrance to the river is from the north or the south via Point-a-Pitre, where you can find protection in the inner basin at Marina Bas du Fort.

The Windward Islands

The Windward Islands stretch from Martinique in the north to Grenada in the south, and include St. Lucia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, and Carriacou. Barbados is often included in the Windward Islands, however, there is no hurricane protection on the island of Barbados for cruising vessels.

The first protection that you will find along the western shore of Martinique is in Baie de Fort du France. The best protection in Fort du France is, without a doubt, in the small cove lying just north of the runway at the airport at Cohe de Lamentin. For those with shallow draft vessels, there are several small rivers and streams leading into Baie de Fort du France where one could find shelter. South of Fort du France, one can find a bit of shelter in the lee of the small cays at Trois Ilets.

At the southern end of Martinique, there are several small coves that are open to the south, but Le Marin (Cul-de-Sac du Marin) offers the only true hurricane protection. Although the primary anchorage here is usually crowded, there are two small mangrove-surrounded coves that are deep and well protected. The first cove is called Baie des Cyclones and lies SSE of the marina docks just under Pte. Malé. The second cove, which is a bit more exposed, lies a bit southwest, just inside Pte. Marin and south of Îlet Baude.

The eastern coast of Martinique is seldom cruised, but it offers many nice anchorages and a couple of places to duck into in the event of an oncoming storm. Cul-de-Sac Petite Grenade offers good protection in the lee of the mainland and a small cay (Îlet Petite Grenade), and is further protected by offshore reefs. I’ve heard Le Francois is a good hurricane hole, but only if you are able to secure your vessel in Rivière du Francois at the southern end of the bay. Baie au Trésor is often regarded as a hurricane hole due to the protection offered by the mainland and the reefs in the bay, however, I find it a bit too open for my needs.

In St. Lucia, my choice would be in Marigot Bay, tucked up nice and snug into the mangroves, far away from the entrance channel. Marigot Bay offers high hills all around, except to the west - to seaward, and good protection from seas. The only problems here would, as usual, come from unattended boats. Rodney Bay (Lagon de Gros Islet) at the northwestern end of St. Lucia, is another alternative. Enter the bay and head past the marina to anchor in the small lagoon to the southwest. Protected from seas, your primary concerns would be the holding in the dredged lagoon, and flying debris from nearby condos. Given the choice, I would rather be in Marigot Bay, but then again, I just like mangroves for protection.

There is no place in St. Vincent and the Grenadines that I would feel comfortable hiding from an approaching storm, but Carriacou and Grenada offer very good hurricane protection. As cruisers (and some insurance companies know), few hurricanes pass this far south. A near miss is more likely in these waters, but don’t bet on it. In Carriacou, Tyrell Bay has a wonderful mangrove-lined creek and pond on the north side of the bay that offers good protection. The creek will carry almost 5’ at low water, if you stay close to the northern shore as you follow the creek to the inner lagoon.

In Grenada, some cruisers tout St. George’s, on the western shore, as a viable hurricane hole. I’ve never thought about riding out a storm in St. George’s and Hurricane Ivan in 2004 convinced me that I will never ride out a storm there unless absolutely necessary. I much prefer the southern shore of Grenada if I’m in search of protection. Here, you’ll find two great spots to ride out a storm, at Port Egmont and Calivgny Harbour. Both are small, mangrove-lined harbors that offer deep water right up to the mangroves in many places. Entrance is not difficult, but should not be attempted at night. Port Egmont is the larger of the two and has a small bridge at its northwestern corner that is far enough out of the way as not to be a problem. Cruisers can also find a bit of protection tucked into the mangroves in Mt. Hartman Bay and behind Hog Island, although these two anchorages are open to southerly winds and both were hit hard by Hurricane Ivan.

Trinidad and Tobago

Although your chances of getting hit by a hurricane in Trinidad or Tobago are small, don’t get complacent (remember the damage that Hurricane Ivan did to Grenada in 2004). Trinidad and Tobago are generally considered to be outside of the normal hurricane zone, though extremely rare, hurricanes are not unknown here. Between 1850 and 2000, two hurricanes and five tropical storms hit Trinidad/Tobago. Since 1990, four tropical storms have hit the Trinidad and Tobago area, while the last hurricane to visit was Flora in 1963. In 1995, Hurricane Iris passed 180 miles north of Trinidad, but brought heavy southerly winds that did a lot of damage along the Gulf of Paria. Hurricane Lenny, although far to the north of Trinidad, brought huge seas to the northern and western coasts of Trinidad and Tobago in November of 1999. And finally, Hurricane Ivan in 2004 were a near miss that wreaked a tremendous amount of destruction on nearby Grenada.

There is little hurricane protection to be found on Trinidad/Tobago, save one tiny spot on the island of Tobago, Bon Accord Lagoon, and a small cove at Port of Spain, Trinidad. Bon Accord Lagoon is off-limits to boaters during the year, but it is available in case of a hurricane. The entrance is tricky, a winding path over a shallow reef before reaching the safety of the small, protected cove. Just south of Grier Channel, the entrance to the commercial docks in Port of Spain, Trinidad, is the Sea Lots Channel, which leads to a small cove that offers fair protection in the event of a major windstorm. The cove is used primarily by commercial fishing vessels, and there are some large wrecks ashore, but a cruising boat could find some shelter in the southern end of the cove between the wrecks and the mangroves. You’ll have to get here early though, as the commercial boats will certainly be heading here the minute they realize a storm is on its way. Please note that the primary danger here would be from other boats.

If you’re not happy with the protection in Trinidad or Tobago, and if there is time, you can head north to Grenada, or west to Venezuela for better protection. Hurricanes are usually not a problem for boaters in the waters of Venezuela, so many cruisers will flee there from the Leeward and Windward Islands, as well as Trinidad and Tobago, if a storm threatens. Those heading south from the Leewards or Windwards usually head to Isla Margarita, as most storms stay north of there. But for those wanting a bit more protection, the waters of the Rio Macareo or and of the small tributaries near the mouth of the Rio Orinoco will give shelter to Trinidadian cruisers who don’t wish to travel a long distance for shelter. Those heading south from the more northerly islands can find shelter at Puerto La Cruz.

The Northwest Caribbean

The Northern Coast of Jamaica

There is only one spot that I would consider when seeking hurricane shelter on the northern coast of Jamaica, and that is at Bogue Lagoon, just south of Montego Bay. Enter the bay as shown on the chart (be sure to read the text first, it’s tricky and the entrance channel can only take a 7’ draft, and possibly an 8’ draft with a very high tide, but then you’ll need another very high tide to get out, but for now the problem is finding shelter, worry about getting out later). Once inside find a suitable spot in the mangroves and secure your vessel so as to allow the most protection from the expected wind directions.

The Cayman Islands

If I were in the Caymans and a hurricane was approaching, there is only one place I would dare to ride out a hurricane, in the confines of North Sound on Grand Cayman My first choice for protection, depending on where the wind is forecast to come from, would be tucked in along the eastern shore of North Sound, past the Kaibo Yacht Club or in Little Sound. A second choice would be to find shelter in Governor’s Harbour on the western shore of North Sound, it is very protected but that area was hit hard by Hurricane Ivan a couple of years ago. There are some other canals on the southern shore of North Sound such as North Sound Estates that carry 7’ at MLW. However this area is full of private homes and it’s best to get permission before tying up in the canals.

Guatemala

As far as actual protection from hurricanes for cruisers in the Northwestern Caribbean, the finest protection is up the Río Dulce in Guatemala. In fact, the Río Dulce is probably the finest hole in the entire Caribbean offering excellent protection, economical prices, and an eclectic group of gregarious cruisers. The marinas are well upstream, miles from the coast and the worst of any hurricane surge, and the surrounding hills go a long way in lessening the strength of the wind. Arguably this may be the best hurricane hole in the entire Caribbean. Why you may ask? It’s not because it abounds in narrow mangrove-lined creeks to hide in, in fact, if every boat on the Río Dulce sought shelter at the same time, the few good hurricane holes would be overflowing. The river’s saving grace is its location. It is very difficult for a hurricane to make a direct hit on the river without crossing good bit of mountainous land that would do nothing for it except weaken it. Even if a Category 5 hurricane were to make a direct hit at the mouth of the river, the storm surge at the marinas twenty miles upstream would be minimal, a third perhaps of the surge at the mouth of the river. If you are seeking hurricane shelter on the river I advise you NOT to seek shelter in one of the smaller rivers that feed into the Río Dulce. These rives can rise 4’ or more in no time when the rains from a hurricane begin falling and all the water rushes down to the Río Dulce. If you’d like to look for yourself, take a dinghy ride up any river, you’ll see logs strewn about here and there, and bear in mind that on the next flood they will be moving downstream and aiming at your vessel should you tie up for shelter in these small rivers.

For hurricane protection on the Río Dulce there are several small coves you can access that offer protection from both wind and seas. In El Golfete you can work your way northwest past Cayo Grande to anchor in Laguna Salvador or Laguna Calix, or in the narrow waterway that leads to them. On the eastern shore of El Golfete, Bahia de Tejano (Texan Bay) offer good protection in the inner harbor off the marina. Here mangroves around and the small cove is very protected from seas save those that build in the short fetch of the cove itself.

South of the bridge is the small cove where Suzanna’s Laguna Marina is located and it is the best protected cove on this stretch of the river. At the extreme southwestern end of Lago Izabal is a small cove called Puerto Refugio, a very good place to secure your boat but it is open to some fetch from the southwest.

Honduras

On the mainland of Honduras only two places can give you anything close to protection in the event of a hurricane, one being upriver of Puerto de Cabotaje at either Lagoon Marina or La Ceiba Shipyard, the other is Laguna el Diamente just southwest of Punta Sal. In La Ceiba you can count on the river at Puerto de Cabotaje to bring a lot of debris downstream as it did in Hurricane Mitch, but in pinch this shelter will suffice, especially if there is not a strong storm surge. Laguna el Diamente offers very good protection but a strong storm surge might make this harbor untenable. If nothing else is available in a reasonable amount of time, Laguna el Diamente might be an option to consider. In the Bay Islands you have a few choices, mostly on Roatán. Small, shallow-draft vessels can work their way up the small canal northwest of Bonacca Town on Guanaja, and also into the lagoon at East Harbour, Utila. On Roatán you can find good shelter at the extreme northern ends of the harbors at Calabash Bight, Hog Pen Bight, Jonesville Bight (at the Northwestern end in Bodden Bight-just past the power lines), and possibly off the marinas at Brick Bay and Old French Harbour, however these two last harbors might be untenable with a strong storm surge.